A better weekend gardening experience

It's vital to start the process of having a hassle-free garden. This article gives you that first step and helps achieve some sound understanding of what you face as a weekend gardener. Our goal is to create a garden that practically takes care of itself.

Unlike my neighbor, Fred.

Fred never found a way to escape the prison of responsibilities and hard, never-ending work required by a high-maintenance garden.

If you want to avoid Fred's fate, you need to start by making a critical examination of the maintenance of your yard and garden.

Start by taking a stroll around your property and make note of how much time you take to tend to various areas.

• Which plants require the most care, right now?

• Are there areas that please you and take less care?

• Are there some areas that you love so much that no matter how much maintenance they take you'd not want to change them?

• Can you visualize any areas being scaled down in size, or that can be improved with a low-maintenance design or gardening technique?

• Where is the problem weeding area?

• Which is the most difficult mowing area of your lawn?

In my book: "The Weekend Gardener"- The Busy Persons' Guide To A Beautiful Backyard Garden, I present very specific ways to combat your problem areas as you think critically about the current maintenance problems you must take into account. Take this tour with a critical eye and a notebook. Make some notes to yourself about what you see, what you imagine, and what you are currently faced with.

As you do this preliminary overview, remember it is okay to consider what you "hate" to do in regards to gardening work. We want to get rid of these areas first and foremost.

Everyone has a different take on this subject. Some hate mowing the lawn, others actually enjoy the exercise and like getting out in the sun. Some find weeding tedious, others will enjoy the process of grabbing weeds by the fistful and yanking them forcefully out of the ground. I have a cousin who has actually been found to wonder into neighbors yards yanking the critters up (much to the surprise and cheerful appreciation of his neighbors) after he had run out of them in his own yard.

So, part of your ‘yard tour' is to make note of the areas that require work; how you feel about each one, and listing which are particularly time-consuming.

Once you're done, take your list and make a check mark (!) next to those items that you intend to keep no matter how much maintenance they may require. Then put a question mark (?) Next to the ones you enjoy looking at, but are nonetheless high-maintenance and take too much work. Later you will discover timesaving techniques you can surely apply to many of these problem areas.

Now plan on making your aim to eliminate those areas left UNMARKED. You'll want low maintenance ways to turn these areas into sources of pleasure, instead of drudgery. However, you can't DO anything to lessen the strain until you first SEE the problems out there in your yard. So do this tour as a first step to achieve true joy and freedom in your gardening experience.

The advantages of solar bird baths

The advantages of solar birdbaths far outweigh any fuss or muss associated with their installation. First of all solar powered bird baths are not very hard to install as they do not really require any extra plumbing or wiring. They are also very economical as they harness the power of the sun's rays to naturally heat the water in the bird bath. Needless to say, this type of bird bath, which

usually features a running fountain in the center as well, can save you tons of money when it comes to your energy bills.

There are several types of solar bird baths on the market including ones that run a circulating fountain in the window to keep the water from freezing in the winter and ones that have a cover to prevent other animals from getting into the bath water. The one component that all solar bird baths on the market have in common is the solar panel that provides energy for its operation.

One of the advantages of solar bird baths is that the birds always have access to fresh circulating water. This running water is better for them to bathe and drink, as it is less likely to contain bacteria and viruses. A solar powered panel located in the bowl powers a pump in the reservoir hidden in the base. The pump then efficiently circulates the water, which prevents it from stagnating. This means the water won't go green, smell or attract too many mosquitoes.

Another advantage of solar bird baths is that they do not require a cord or any wiring. This means that they can be placed anywhere on a lawn without you having to worry about a power source. All that matters is that they must be placed on a flat stable surface to make sure that the water flows through the bird bath's fountain pump smoothly and does not splash. The fact that these solar powered bird baths can be placed anywhere in a yard is also a boon for landscape architects as well as people who forget to unplug ordinary birdbaths when they mow the lawn.

Yet another benefit of owning a solar operated bird bath is that it is relatively inexpensive. The fact that it is heated water helps birds have a constant source of water in winter climates. You can also use a small heater in tandem with the solar bird bath to make sure that the birds stay hydrated and warm.

In terms of maintenance some types of solar bird baths may need their solar panels removed in the winter and replaced with a non-solar insert during the winter months. This is particularly recommended if you live in a climate here there is no sun at all. However if you live in a climate with a lot of cold, yet unny days, you may not need to do this. The necessity of removing the solar panels and replacing it with a non solar insert is dependent on the recommendation of the manufacturer of the bird bath.

Like all pools or ponds, solar bird baths may also need regular cleaning. Seeding the bath with natural enzymes can help prevent algae and grime from staining the insides of the bird bath bowl.

Solar bird baths also appeal to more and a wider variety of birds. This is because most bird varieties are more attracted to water that is moving, than water that is standing. It is easier for them to spot the moving water as they are winging their way over your yard. It is as if the birds instinctively know that moving water is healthier for them than still pools. For this reason you are likely to see even more types of birds than you ever have seen before enjoying themselves in this type of bird bath.

Solar bird baths are also healthier for you and your family. This is because bird baths that have running water are less likely to attract mosquitoes that spread the West Nile virus. In fact water that stands for three days is a great attractant for mosquitoes so if your solar bird bath malfunctions make sure you get it fixed quickly! Almost 2,500 cases of West Nile virus are reported annually in the United States. Running a solar bird bath is one unique way that you can protect you and the birds from all kinds of viruses and bacteria.

Everybody can garden with containers

Container gardening is fantastic. On its own, a terracotta pot is just a container and summer bedding is just some plants. However, selectively plant the summer bedding in the container, add a few sprinkles of green-fingered expertise and you have created a miniature garden-scape. You are effectively planting a garden in miniature. This is known to some people as container design planting. The constructive planting of containers allows people who may just have a balcony to enjoy a taste of horticulture; containerised planting also brings the garden within the reach of a disabled persons fork and trowel.

* Cleaning containers

To help you create thriving container plantings for the summer, please consider the following… If you intend replanting any containers you should get rid of all traces of compost from the previous year. Be scrupulous in your washing as particles of previous year’s compost can harbour pests, diseases and mould spores. To ensure a clean environment for growing, wash the heavier covering of old compost off with a hose. Follow this by plunging the containers into water containing a garden disinfectant such as ‘Jeyes fluid’. Scrub off any stubborn compost with a scrubbing brush, do this whilst in the disinfectant. Rinse the containers well under running water and leave them to dry. Use this method on window boxes as well, particularly if you have a build up of old compost and your planting tends to finish flowering far too early.

* Container drainage

Check your container for adequate drainage holes, If you have too few or no drainage holes at all then your plants may suffer from oxygen starvation due to excess water. To prevent drainage points becoming blocked with compost, I suggest placing a layer of broken terracotta or polystyrene bedding plant trays over the drainage holes. In fact broken polystyrene bedding plant trays can also be used to fill the main body of larger containers; this will reduce the amount of potting compost needed.

* Compost level

Fill your container with a quality peat or loam-based compost and firm lightly. Ensure this compost stops at least 1 inch below the lip of the container; this will be your watering space.

* Planting

Hours before planting, plunge these plants in a bucket of water and thoroughly soak them. Watering like this will prevent shock upon replanting and will also help merge the plants existing compost to its new container compost. Position the plants on top of the container to get an impression of what the final planting could look like, it is better to alter positions at this stage rather than at the mucky post planting stage.

* Centre and surrounding planting

Aim to plant from the centre of the container outwards. Create a central or offset central hole big enough for the rootball of the central plant. Examples of good central plants would be a Cordyline or Phormium. Remove the pot (believe me, some people forget this) and place the plant into the hole firming the compost around it. Then, settle the rest of the plants in similar planting style around the edges. All the plants should end up at the same depth as they were in their original containers.

* Watering

Ensure the containers compost stops at least 1 inch below the lip of the container; this is to allow a watering space. Level the surface of the compost with your hand and water thoroughly until water starts to flow from the containers base. Leave the container to sit for about an hour, if after that hour any of the compost has settled then you may top it up. Wooden and unglazed terracotta containers usually require much more water due to their porous and absorbent nature. I suggest you apply a mulch of mini-chip bark or gravel to the composts surface, as well as being decorative this will lessen the containers loss of water through evaporation.

Buying or building a water fountain things to consider

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A great deal about fountains has changed over the last decade. Now there are really high class ones made of copper, stainless steel, bronze, concrete, and stone, and some fairly nice ones made of resin and fiberglass. There are several things to consider, though. As a pump wholesaler, I speak with fountain owners all the time and also look at lots of samples of
fountains at trade shows and in magazines. Before purchasing a fountain, there are quite a few questions to ask. What looks good in a store might not look good at your home or business.

Bronze and Stainless Steel Fountains

These are at the high end of fountains, and can retail for ten to twenty thousand dollars. They are plain classy. But will one of these fit in where you want to put it? Do you have the right yard or business or location for such a classic kind of display? Also, do you like the aging process (the verdigris patina) that bronze undergoes? Can you afford one of these? If you answered yes to these questions, a bronze or stainless steel
fountain might be right for you. It will last your lifetime, your kids’ lifetimes, their kids’ lifetimes, etc. And they are durable enough to be moved from house to house.

Copper Fountains

Like bronze
fountains, these too tend to be classy, especially the name brand ones like Water Wonders, which mix copper with glass and slate. These make especially nice Wall fountainswall fountains. There are certain things to think about, though. Are you locating the fountain in a room with good acoustics? Some rooms make the pump noise really echo, especially small rooms with walls that are close together. Do you know someone or can you hire an electrician to hide the cord in the wall? These fountains are a bit too expensive to buy if you’re going to let the cord run outside the wall for everyone to see. Finally, it is a good idea to go listen to them run at a store before purchasing. Some of them make little water noise and some make a lot. To increase water sound you might have to turn up the pump to the point of there being slight splash.

Concrete Fountains

These still provide the most bang for the buck, primarily because concrete is so inexpensive. In fact, a huge part of the cost of concrete fountains is in transporting them to stores for sale and in the labor of painting them. The concrete itself is the least expensive part of the fountains’ manufacture. Most concrete companies (though not all) reinforce their fountains with steel. This makes them strong but also means the concrete must be sealed. If not painted (as most fountains from Mexico are not), then they do need to have a clear sealant put on them. Otherwise the water will seep through to the steel, which will rust. Eventually, the fountain is likely to crack. One final word of advice on concrete, beware of “cute.” Cute
fountains (mama dogs with baby dogs, boys peeing) sometimes don’t look so cute over time. Ask yourself if you’ll still think the fountain is cute years later. Remember, concrete fountains can last hundreds of years. And they are difficult to move so pick something that will stay put. The traditional Italian 3-tier fountain is always a safe bet.

Resin and Fiberglass
Fountains

The quality of these has gotten a lot better, and they have the clear advantage of being more easily handled than concrete ones. Some do look like concrete and stone, though they tend to look much more realistic at first glance than they do after a week has passed. Then it is pretty clear that they are faux. These are also a lot easier on employees who work in tores, as they don’t have to worry as much about their backs. We would sell these at our store but just don’t like their looks as well as the real thing.

Stone Fountains

These look incredibly good or mediocre. The handcrafted stone fountains out of Mexico and many of the large ones out of China are beautiful. But there are also mass-produced stone
fountains, which use crushed stone mixed with resin. These just don’t look like real stone to us even though they are.

Making Your Own
Water Fountain

There are lots of ways to make your own
fountains. The easiest way, perhaps, is to place a pump in a small tub or on some liner. Then place a wire or plastic grate on top of the tub or the liner, and layer pebbles, rocks, etc. over the wire or plastic grate. Your pump and plumbing will be hidden! No one will no where your water is coming from. You can then connect black PVC piping to the pump (black sprinkler pipe is incredibly inexpensive yet professional looking) and let the water rise up seemingly out of rocks in your yard. You won’t have to worry much about pets as the water source is covered with stones. Likewise, you won’t have to worry about kids drowning. You can also build a little
waterfall over such a pit if you want, just throwing in boulders to hide your electric and tubing, etc. Some people use bamboo for spouts. You can also drill holes through slate (we’ve found it’s really easy if you soak the slate for a day first). Slate is so porous, however, you ought to seal it once you’re done drilling. You can also find rocks in nature that already have holes in them.

How Big of a Pump do I need?

Basically, if you buy a
fountain at a store you should have instructions on the best size pump for that particular piece of garden art. If you are making your own fountain, here is a rule of thumb: for every inch of width you need to pump 100 gallons per hour. But note that a100 gallon per hour pump is not pumping the same volume at one foot head (elevation above the pump), two feet head, three feet, and so forth. If you are making your own
fountain, it is likely you will have to guess which size to buy, and you might be wrong the first time you build one. Most pumps are adjustable but often can be adjusted down only a bit. However, magnetic-driven pumps, the most common kind, are inexpensive and durable.

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